Have you ever looked at a garment and wished you could make it just a little bit different? Or perhaps you've struggled to find clothing that truly fits your unique body shape? That was me, and it's what ultimately led me down the fascinating rabbit hole of patternmaking.
The process of doing is the key to learning!
I am self-taught, and currently consider myself as an aspiring pattern designer. I'm also learning the skill of grading. This is not a tutorial, but my story about how I taught myself patternmaking.
Why did I start this journey? It gave me creative freedom, and the ability to make the exact design I was aiming for. I've never been satisfied with commercial patterns!
I first was interested in fashion design, next was wanting to open an Etsy shop to sell handmade clothes, next was sewing alterations I’ve done on the side. It finally came down to creating patterns of the designs I loved. I’ve been watching indie companies spring up everywhere and wanted to start my own so I can share with everyone my designs.
My Self-Taught Tool Kit:
Books - these titles were invaluable to me
- Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong (I have the 3rd edition which is very sufficient, the 5th edition that many people mention is incredibly expensive)
- Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele Margolis
- High Fashion Sewing Secrets by Claire Shaeffer
- Clone Your Clothes by Claire-Louise Hardie
- Making Patterns from Finished Clothes by Rusty Bensussen
Helpful YouTube Channels:
Kim Dave
Tammy Handmade
Jessica Capalbo
With Wendy
Tricia's Creative Costume Academy
Mimi G Style
The Last Stitch
Sew Aldo DIY
My Hands on Experience/Trial and Error Story:
I made my first skirt when I was 19 - I didn't even know what a dart was! I wore it anyway.
I was not one of the fortunate children that had a mom to teach me sewing. She had zero patience and I wasn't about to ask. I guess I just had to wait to get my own machine one day. When I first made that skirt at 19, I used her sewing machine and didn't know how to put the bobbin back in place - oh she had it in for me. 🤯 That's when I just waited patiently to get my own machine - ahh good times (lol).
When I was 25, my grandma passed away and I inherited her 1967 Touch & Sew Singer. That's when I began all the experimenting I wanted and didn't have to sweat the mistakes with the clothes or the machine. This is where real hands-on learning happened for me.
I started using all the big name patterns like Simplicity, McCall's and Vogue. After a long while, I wasn't exactly pleased with what I made. Why? Well, the design was attractive, but not exactly what I wanted. It was kind of like buying something and saying - well I guess this will do for now.
My aha moment came when I realized - why don't I just draw up what I want to make? 🤔
Enter - pattern drafting!
I first started out by copying ready made clothes, then I started dabbling into drafting the exact design I wanted first on paper, using my own measurements, then drafting on tissue paper. I first attempted a fitting toile from muslin and it fit me well but just a bit snug. I remember one time, I had a month before a wedding and drafted myself a simple off the shoulder dress for the event. It was a success, but I wished I used a lighter fabric, it was in the middle of summer!! I thrifted a deep plum polyester curtain, and to my surprise it was a bit hot, but I loved wearing it, and got so many compliments. That really set off the pattern making craze I was having.
During that time I made that plum wedding guest dress, I was doing sewing alterations on the side. I started that back in 2019 and did it for 6 years until now. Unfortunately I had to cease recently because I developed degenerative disc disease which is so common in people that hunch over doing labor work. I never realized I had done this to my neck when it was too late. One evening my back experienced excruciating pain. My MRI revealed 2 cartilage discs almost worn away, a crooked spine, and the discs pressing on my spinal cord. I did gain much experience through alterations understanding proper fit on many different bodies. So, I wanted to use this experience for my next endeavor, digital pattern making.
From that point on, I really wanted to dive into digital pattern making. I realized this is and has been the new way to sell patterns. I was hooked.
I'm still in the learning stage but I feel so strongly that I am getting closer to having my first design out there to share with everyone! This was and is a learning experience to say the least!
....And The Journey Continues
As each day passes, I'm always learning. I have many sketch designs and a written plan of my goals. I have good headway of 2 patterns in the works, a blouse and skirt which I hope to release next year. Spring time would be a great time for a pattern release! As I'm working on my patterns, I'm also learning grading which will be another post, there is so much to discuss on that subject!
Rewards of a Self-Taught Path
There are many rewards to gain from this journey. You'll develop a unique skill set by knowing not only how to sew, but have the ability to create your own designs. I've also gained so much from doing alterations. So many people I've met tell me "I have no clue how you do that", "Sewing is a lost art", or "I could never have the patience to sew". You'll feel a sense of accomplishment from your years of experience!
You'll not only gain confidence in your abilities, but have a deeper understanding of clothing construction. I still like to study clothing from the inside and study vintage and new patterns as well.
It brings you joy when you create something custom made by you and you have creative independence. You are the designer and you make it to your vision.
On the plus side of being self-taught, you will save a whole lot of money that would cost in tuition and gas mileage at college. Don't get me wrong, if you have the opportunity to attend college or even classes, go and do so. There are also online classes as well. However, most people are on such a strict budget, classes are out of the question.
My Advice to Self-Taught Aspiring Pattern Makers?
It's ironic that I'm giving advice on being an aspiring patternmaker myself! However, I feel after all that I've learned I need to share so you may learn and make your journey as smooth as possible.
Start with the basics:
You don't need every single piece of equipment, tool and pattern making software sold on the market. However, you'll need a good starter tool kit. If you don't know where to start, check out my post here on pattern making tools on a budget to get started.
Practice is key:
Clone your clothes, study other patterns. Don't be afraid to make mistakes, that is how you learn to improve!
Use all possible resources:
Utilize all available resources – books, YouTube, Facebook Groups
MY SECRET - I'm spilling the beans here:
Study other patterns, see how they are made. But by all means don't copy other makers' work. This method to me is the same as on the job training or taking apart a garment to see how it was constructed. A completed pattern is an example to study and then you can have more understanding of how it was drafted and graded as well.
🪡🪡🪡
My self-taught patternmaking journey has been challenging, rewarding, and incredibly fulfilling. It's a testament to the power of curiosity and perseverance. I'm excited to see where this path leads me next, one pattern at a time!
0 comments